Surfing is my absolute favourite thing. I have a long-term ambition to live somewhere warm near a surf beach. I believe I would be much less stressed out if surfing were a bigger part of my life. Here’s why surfing is good for the soul.
Surfing is mindful
My absolute favourite thing about surfing is sitting on my board staring at the horizon, waiting for the right wave. It clears my mind.
That might sound strange for a sport that seems, on the surface, to be all about big waves, speed and tricks. The majority of surfing is actually paddling, second is sitting and waiting, and last actually riding waves.
Don’t get me wrong, I do love catching waves! But I really love sitting still with my feet in the water and thinking about nothing at all. I find it’s the only time I can truly switch my mind off from whatever is going on in my life.
Of course, before you get to sit out back chillaxing, you have to learn to get out there… which brings me onto my next point.
Surfing is a challenge
Life is all about experiences, right? Overcoming challenges is food for the soul.
Learning to surf is a particularly fun kind of challenge!
When you begin, you know nothing about the ocean, tides, which waves are good and which are bad.
You don’t know how to catch a wave. You don’t know how to stand. You fall off and you don’t know why. How the hell do surfers make it look so damn easy?!
But then, if you keep trying, suddenly it all falls into place. Suddenly you’re there, standing up on a wave and it feels EPIC.
The great thing is that, even once you’ve mastered the basics, you never stop learning. There is always something new to learn and something to do better. Even pro surfers learn more every time they paddle out.
Surfing is a great way to make real friends fast
I have a lot of friends that I met on surf trips. I’ve found that a group surfing holiday is an awesome way to meet people I get along with.
And trust me, nothing bonds a group of people quicker than seeing a monster wave on the horizon and not knowing whether you will all make it over the top! It’s a shared experience to laugh about later over a cool beer.
And… if you don’t make it over the wave, you’ll be fine anyway. If you’re a beginner you’re unlikely to be surfing Teahupoo. A few seconds in the washing machine won’t harm you and a salt water rinse of the sinuses is a good thing!
Surfing isn’t competitive (unless, y’know, you compete)
Personally, I’m not a fan of any sports that make me feel like I’m not good enough. At school I was awful at netball and hockey and I always felt like I was letting everyone else down.
Surfing just isn’t like that.
Even if you’re a complete beginner and you’re struggling to get to your feet, it just doesn’t matter. There’s no winning or losing, but it feels AMAZING when you first manage to stand, or when you master that new turn.
I’ve always found that learning to surf is about helping each other, not competing with each other. Friends are good for the soul, so surfing is good for the soul.
(I wish my face when I’m surfing reflected what I’ve just written… Look at it! Determination written all over it! I am having fun and I’m not competing, honest!)
Sometimes amazing things happen when you’re surfing
I was surfing at sunrise in Encinitas, California a few years ago. It was a beautiful morning with a set of nice, easy waves rolling in every ten minutes or so.
There was only me and one other surfer (my guide) in the water so it was super peaceful.
I was chilling out waiting for the next set and could see a wave on the horizon. As it got closer, I saw them. A pod of dolphins playing in the wave – leaping out of the water with a splash!
Did you know dolphins love surfing too? They definitely think surfing is good for the soul.
One sunset surf in Costa Rica it was pretty calm and still, with only the odd small wave creeping in every now and then. I don’t mind too much when it’s calmer because it’s still valuable time to chill.
I saw something bob out of the water right next to me whilst I was sat on my board. At first I thought it was one of my friends.
But no… it was a huge turtle!
He eyed me for a second, before sinking back into the water – giving me a wave with his fin as he went along his way…
I like to imagine that he was the cool turtle from Finding Nemo!
Surfing is good for the soul
So, what do you think? Surfing is good for the soul? Have you tried it? I’d love to know what you think – feel free to comment below!
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