If you’re going to travel in India, you’ll likely need to take a sleeper train at least once (probably more!). But what is a sleeper train in India really like?
On my recent trip to India I visited nine places in the state of Rajasthan and two places in Uttar Pradesh. I needed to take three overnight sleeper trains and a few more long day train journeys.
I had never been on a sleeper train until I travelled in China and the train there was above my expectations. I wasn’t so sure about the overnight trains in India though.
On the first train me and my friends were all a bit nervous and didn’t know quite what to expect, so I thought I’d share my experience!
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What are the train stations in India like?
The stations in India are a little different to Europe, and just about everywhere else I’ve been. Not least because people sometimes wait on the tracks, try to force the windows and climb in if it’s a busy train.
Normally there are toilets, normally there are refreshment stands (DON’T buy the cooked food, but the water and biscuits should be fine). For some reason, though, the stations whiff a bit! I didn’t sniff around enough to find the source of the smells, but it’s definitely not roses! You’ll be used to it in a few minutes though.
At any time of day, but particularly if you are catching an overnight train in India, expect to have to step over whole families lying on the concrete platform having a nap. Everybody does it. These aren’t homeless people, they’re just tired and waiting a long time for a train, which brings me on to my next point…
Your train probably won’t be on time
Whilst other parts of Asia pride themselves on train punctuality, India is a little different. The train probably won’t be on time. The train will sometimes stop in a station for five minutes, and sometimes 30. There doesn’t seem to be much rhyme or reason for this. For your own sanity, it’s best to adopt a ‘go with the flow’ attitude and not get worked up about it. It won’t change anything but your own blood pressure. So, chill out, lie down and take a nap on the concrete (hugging your backpack of course!).
Classes of Train Travel in India
I travelled in AC-3 Tier throughout my trip (for both overnight and day journeys) and I thought it was fine. AC-3 is air conditioned and bedding is provided. There are seven classes available.
AC-3 is certainly not luxury (see photo above of AC-3 Tier in the day) but everything you need is there. In the day, three people sit along the bottom bunk much like a normal train. When night falls, the staff bring round packs of clean sheets for each passenger. It’s up to you and your fellow passengers to agree when it’s time to fold down the middle bunk and go to bed.
The sheets are… fine. Just don’t be a princess and maybe don’t look too closely, but they are technically clean even if they aren’t quite Daz Ultra White!
Sleep with your head nearest the window and hug your day pack. If you need the bathroom in the night, take your bag with you or leave it with a friend – just in case.
Will you be able to sleep on a sleeper train in India?
I did. The beds are very narrow, so there isn’t much fidget-room, but if you don’t usually toss and turn much you’ll probably manage to get reasonably comfortable.
I find I feel more secure on the top bunk, so I sleep better there. It’s a trade-off though… there’s less space up there! Plus you are close to the air con which can either be very pleasant or a bit too chilly in the middle of the night.
So, what is a sleeper train in India really like for a good night’s sleep? I guess it depends on how well you sleep in unusual situations. For me, the train sounds and movement rock me to sleep. I’ve actually had some really great long sleeps on sleeper trains!
Where do you store your luggage on an Indian sleeper train?
What is a sleeper train in India really like in terms of luggage storage and safety? Your luggage will need to be small enough to fit under the bottom bunk, which is fairly low to the ground.
My 50L Hybrid Backpack on Wheels was perfect, but you wouldn’t want anything much bigger and certainly it needs to be squishable.
Luggage stored under the bottom bunk should be safe without a lock in most trains, but the train between Agra and Varanasi is more notorious for theft (purely because it has many short stops – it’s easy for someone to grab your bag and hop off the train before you notice).
If you’re taking this train, you can purchase a chain and lock on the platform for peace of mind.
Get used to your new celebrity status!
What is a sleeper train in India really like for a foreign traveller? If you’re white, you’re going to make some new Indian friends! Hooray!
Some will be business men who’d like an intelligent chat. Some will be unable to speak English, but just LOVE to stare. If the train you’re on is in a station for a while in the daytime and it’s busy, you may well attract a crowd. Some will get on the train for a closer look.
On a sleeper train, I *may* have once woken up in the middle of the night to see the man in the bunk opposite me having a good old stare. That one was a little creepy, but mostly I felt fine. Just remember that most people are just curious – not threatening. You will know the difference.
What are the toilets like on sleeper trains in India?
I thought the toilets were fine. Do note, though, that despite appearances I really am not much of a princess!
So, what is a sleeper train in India really like for facilities? Train toilets in AC-3 Tier class present two options at the end of each carriage: a western toilet and an Asian toilet.
If you are physically able, I recommend the Asian toilet. I honestly don’t know why people are squeamish about it. This is your most hygienic option because you won’t have to touch anything! I should mention that on the train, this option is literally a hole – you’ll be able to see the track.
Take your own toilet paper in with you – there won’t be any supplied, just a jug which you can fill with water like the locals if the mood takes you.
An Indian man asked my guide “Why do they take paper into the toilet with them? What are they doing? Writing letters?!”. When my guide explained, the man was shocked and disgusted with us. Everything is down to what you are used to.
Yes, sorry, they do smell bad and hand sanitizer is a must…
Should you travel alone on a sleeper train in India?
What is a sleeper train in India really like if you’re travelling alone? Honestly, I don’t believe I would have felt comfortable taking my first overnight train in India by myself.
Having travelled on three now, I reckon I could probably do it. I would definitely be fine with a friend in tow, but on my own… I’d have to give that some thought.
It can be confusing to know what train is the right one, where your seat is, negotiating with someone who is squatting in your seat, and dealing with staring fellow passengers. How much of an adventure do you want?
Travelling to India for the first time?
Luckily, there are heaps of other options. If you’re travelling to India for the first time, I thoroughly recommend taking a small group tour.
I travelled on the India On A Shoestring trip with G Adventures and they are my absolute favourite tour company. It didn’t feel like a tour – it felt like travelling with friends.
Even the guide was more like a friend than a guide and has offered to help me out with arrangements if I ever visit India again (which I hope I will!).
G Adventures cater for all ages and travel styles, even families! You can find out more about G Adventures on their website.
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